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STEVE'S IMSA 2008
Ironman is “Easy”!
After having completed ironman South Africa 2008 I have come up with the following deductions – Take them with a pinch of salt and take heed of the underlying messages.
The Race
Swim
A lot of people get themselves in a complete tizz about what is genuinely the easiest part of the day (Especially if its idyllic like 13 April 2008!). Keep the intensity steady but not too hard, get into a dull kind of ‘I could do this all day” rhythm, stop to sight with a bit of breastroke (You don’t lose much time – if at all), try not to be the “I wanna be on the inside of the bouy” guy and have a wrestling match to do so and jog very slowly to take in the crowds half way round (Your heart rate will thank you). Extra effort here by 5-10% will equate to a few minutes at best, maybe that effort will be best used after 20k’s of running? Who cares if your swim time is a few minutes quicker than your buddy? How about having a 2hour quicker run than him?
Transition 1
I must have lost 30 places in the “Sprint” from the sea to the change tent, I did manage to reel most of the T1 specialists by the 1st aid station though – It takes you a long time to settle your heart rate on the bike if its sky high when you first mount. Make sure you put the right clothes on (Arm warmers etc) and sunscreen. Say thanks to the friendly volunteer and get on your bike
Bike
I would hesitate to say the 70% of ironman 1st timers did the fastest 60k’s of their lives on the 1st lap this year. I pretty much knew I could ride close to 5hour pace and I hardly gained any places in the first 90minutes of the bike. Maybe everybody was just much fitter and faster this year than in years gone by. Maybe not! The price for this pacing always gets paid. All those fast first lap guys almost definitely had a “Slow” 3rd lap and most definitely has a “Very Slow” 3rd lap of the Marathon. Pacing and Nutrition is what the bike ride is about, make sure the food / calories go in (A lot more than you think) and go EASY when its hard (ie up the hill to Mt.Pleasant) and HARD / STEADY when its easy (Down hills and with the wind). There is a little thing called a 42.2k marathon run that most bikers forget about! How many 25-30k runs did you do? Where they easy at the end? Could you run another 12-15k at the end of these runs and hold your training pace without really hurting and taking in extra calories? Maybe, but probably not. Had you ridden a bike for 5-7hours before these long runs? Give the 180’s some respect. Dont spike your heart rate and take it easy and ride in a relaxed controlled way. The marathon is to be RUN not walked and crawled!
Transition 2
Take your time......even if you took the last 10k’s of the bike easy (Which you should have done – 3 gears easier than normal). Get properly kitted out, make sure you have sunscreen on and Vaseline in tender spots walk / jog out the tent and thank the lovely volunteers once again.
Run
This is what it should be – A RUN. But alas....once again it is just pure carnage out there. A steady 5minute per k marathon would have earned you a top 50 run split. I bet most people train at this pace for months before ironman – Does that mean you are all training at above race pace (ie far too hard). No! It means that almost everybody bikes too hard, doesn’t eat / drink the right amount and gets the pacing in the first 10-15k all wrong. The last 25k’s of the ironman is where it all gets messy. Some know how to handle these last few hours, others don’t. If athletes would race the ironman to get to the last 2 laps of the run with gas in the tank and confidence that they could RUN /JOG / Struggle through this section at a shade slower than their LONG RUN training pace there would be a lot more happier finishers. A marathon is far, have respect for a marathon on its own and then maybe you will gain respect for the 180’s too.
Training for the Ironman
It is too much the be all and end all of athletes lives. The sessions they must complete the sessions they have missed are way too high on the priority scale of most people training for the race. Take a chill pill. Get more sleep than you think you need, train more often and shorter. Why bother smashing yourself to peices in the pool? What is the point of riding all day getting dehydrated and smashing your legs even more into oblivion? And deciding the next day would be a good idea for a LONG RUN and TIRED legs....great call. Just almost do an ironman every weekend so you know what it feels like to always be tired, irritable and over trained. How about a 3 -4hr ride followed by a 15-30minute run, once every week for about 6 weeks as the LONG session, the next days run could be 45-75minutes.......then do a long run during the week on an early morning like Wednesday (maybe do 20-25ks) and top that up in the evening with a 5-7k easy jog. Fresh for the weekend session and fresh for the long run......what a revelation! Doesn’t it feel great to do the long sessions feeling fresh?
Do something everyday......even if it a 30minute swim. Take a day off if needed or just fit in what you can. Rather cut a session in half than not do it.
Make sure your taper is organised and the intensity of the shorter sessions is generally higher than what you are used to. Cut out caffeine for 2-3 weeks before race day get as many massages as you can afford. Get some really comfortable good looking kit to race in...feel good, race good!
Example Race day nutrition of 80kg hot blooded male
Before
6x Optygen tablets (Taken 6 per day for 1 week before race and 3 per day for 6 weeks)
1 bottle cytomax Pre –Performance
1 x banana
½ EFS first endurance energy bar
1 x Gu before the start
1 x weak EFS energy drink 500ml
Bike
Water in the first 20minutes (maybe 150-200ml) mostly to wash out sea water taste
3 x EFS energy drink
12 x watered down Gu’s (6 x Plain and 6 x double espresso) in a 500ml water bottle (No mess – no fuss!)
10 x salt tabs (2 per hour – taken after 1 hour on the bike)
750ml RED BULL rocket juice (2 Red Bulls and coke mixed with water to degas it) mixed in a normal water bottle –Picked up a special needs
1 x packet enerjelly sweets – picked up at special needs
2 x EFS energy bars cut into big bite size chunks
1 x regmaker contains 150mg caffeine (at 150k mark) – taped to aerobar
Continually sprayed water from aid stations in helmet and on legs to keep muscles and core temperature down
Run
9 Gu’s (3 x Gu flasks with 3 watered down Gu’s in each) – carried 2 flasks and put on in pocket
1 x red bull and coke in a 500ml water bottle in transition bag – just to kick start the run!
1 x powerbar gel at an aid station 7k’s to go
Lots of water sachets sprayed mostly on my body and drank with gu’s.
Lots of “ICE COLD” sponges at EVERY aid station on my head / shoulders / upper arms to keep core body temperature down.
4 x Cramp stop pills
6 x Salt tabs
Coke from aid stations in the last 12k’s of the run.
1x packet chocolate raisins from special needs bag
1 x Red bull rocket juice (2 red Bulls and coke mixed with water) – picked up at special needs
Thats it....”EASY”
Cheers
Steve
Aero Tips article
How Important Is Aerodynamics Vs. Weight
To understand how important aerodynamics is to bicycling you must understand
the relationship between speed and drag. The faster you go the more drag
you create. However to travel twice as fast the drag is not simply doubled,
it is quadrupled because drag follows a square law. So, if you go 3 times
as fast you create 9 times as much drag.
How does all this theory really apply to cycling?
The power required for the average size (5' 9") person to:
maintain 20 mph = 1/4 hp or 186.5 Watts.
maintain 26 mph = 1/2 hp or 373 Watts.
As you can see it takes twice as much energy to go only 6 mph faster.
Where does all this resistance come from?
If 90% of the resistance is drag how much is me and how much is my bike?
Wheels and Aerodynamics
The maximum speed one can reach on a bicycle depends on two factors.
• One; the amount of power the rider can generate.
• Two; the amount of resistance generated by aerodynamic drag (90%)
combined with the resistance of moving the mass of the bike and rider
(10%).
Obviously the aerodynamic resistance (drag) plays a much greater role
(excluding climbing).
The faster you ride, the more drag you create, therefore you have to produce
more power exponentially just to maintain speed. Using this power to it's
fullest potential requires efficiency. Since 90% of the resistance is
drag the largest area to improve efficiency in cycling is aerodynamics.
With all the "aero" wheels out there knowing which ones you
should buy can be difficult. So we've put together a reference source
for aero wheels.
For a pair of aero wheels to be effective the rider must be traveling
at least 14mph. However once these speeds are reached slower riders gain
the most from aerodynamic wheels as they will travel longer (in time)
through the air over a course that is the same length.
The front wheel is more important than the rear wheel as it is the one
that breaks the air first.
If a pair of aero wheels are heavier than your current wheels it does
not mean they will be slower. As we stated above aerodynamics comprises
90% of the resistance while cycling. Therefore the extra weight should
be insignificant when compared to the aerodynamic savings.
Approximate time savings are:
What Is The Best Way To Reduce Drag
There are many ways to decrease aerodynamic drag including having your position professionally assessed and changed.
Approximate time savings at 20 mph over a distance of 40Km are:
Caffeine! Caffeine! Caffeine! Can it make you
faster?
Every once in a while, we find out that something we actually like to
eat, might actually also be good for racing.
Let's talk about an ergogenic aid that may already be a regular part of
your daily diet. An ergoenic aid is a substance that enhances performance.
There are also erolythic aids, which are substances that have a detrimental
effect on performance. Many substances thought to be ergogenic, are actually
ergolythic, and many substances that are ergogenic are ergolythic in high
doses. Caffeine is a particularly interesting substance. It is not only
common, but it is a cult favorite in the triathlon scene as an ergogenic
aid, and you probably have seen many nutritional substances, particularly
in gels, that boast of containing caffeine. However, what are the facts
about the substance? I have to confess that I have dismissed caffeine
as a legitimate ergogenic aid for a long time. I have always believed
that the buzz around caffeine (get it, buzz) was just hype, and have never
experimented with caffeine.
The first thing that clued me off to caffeine as a legitimate performance enhancing substance, is the discovery that it is a banned substance in the Olympics. However, like almost all ergogenic aids, it is only banned at a certain ingestion level or at a detected level in the blood or urine. At the IOC’s definition of an illegal dose, an athlete would have to consume 6 cups of strong coffee prior to competing in order to exceed the legal Olympic limit. Not impossible, but that’s a lot of coffee.
A 1991 study from the School of Human Biology, in Ontario, Canada, took 7 trained competitive runners, two trials running to exhaustion and two trials cycling to exhaustion. The athletes ingested either a placebo or caffeine at 9 mg/kg. That would equal about 650mg of caffeine for a 155 pound athlete, which is 3.5 cups of strong coffee. Well below the IOC limit. Also, 650mg of caffeine equals 13 mountain dews, so you would really have to "do the dew" to get that much caffeine. They took the placebo or caffeine 1 hour before exercise. Now, running time to exhaustion increased after caffeine ingestion from 49.2 minutes to 71.0 minutes! And when cycling the caffeine increased time to exhaustion from 39.2min to 59.3. This blows my mind! I think it blew the mind of the researchers too, because one year later, the researchers did almost the exact same test again.
In this second test, eight subjects cycled to exhaustion 1 hour after ingestion of 9 mg/kg of either placebo or caffeine. The athletes cycled 96.2 minutes with the caffeine and 75.8 minutes with the placebo. Holy cow! Note that the athletes were not any faster, but their time to exhaustion significantly increased.
For best effect, the participants refrained from caffeine use 3-4 days before their competition. Another note, the positive effects of caffeine are diminished if the athlete takes in moderate doses of caffeine as part of their regular diet. If you are taking in 300mg of caffeine a day already, you will not get the benefit from caffeine loading. Also, the performance enhancing effects of caffeine are best realized when taken as pure caffeine, as opposed to caffeine mixed with other substances. Meaning, coffee or gels may not be as effective as high-ratio doses in over-the-counter drugs such as Vivrin or No-dose.
However, caffeine is that not simple! There are risks to caffeine. Those
risks of caffeine include insomnia, as a diuretic, increased risk for
dehydration. Also, other reserach indicated that caffiene can be physically
addictive and introduce GI problems in some athletes.
My current opinion is that you should consider incorporating caffeine
into your next training plan. Now, don’t go and take in 650mg of
caffeine a day, but don’t take it in for the first time on race
day. Like any other race-day nutrition strategy, your nutrition and supplements
should have been tested in during your training in race-simulation workouts.
I’d limit the high-caffeine doses to 2-3 tests in race-simulation
workouts before deciding whether or not to use it on race day.
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR WETSUIT:
Fit and Putting It ON
Triathlon wetsuits are designed for surface swimming, and fit like a second skin, which is probably different from any other type of wetsuit you may have worn. They are also made of lightweight materials with fabric inside, smoothskin rubber outside. This rubber is not as abrasion or tear-resistant as neoprene with fabric on both sides, which is what is used in surf, dive, and water ski suits.
Getting the suit on is easier if both you and your suit are dry and cool. A small amount of baby powder on your legs and arms works wonders. PLASTIC GROCERY BAGS OVER THE FEET AND CALVES ALLOW THE SUIT TO SLIDE UP VERY EASILY. Use fingers and finger tips to pull on suit, NEVER DIG YOUR NAILS INTO THE SUIT TO GET A BETTER GRIP.
Use steady and firm force, no pinching, yanking, or excessive stretching.
1. Smoothskin outside, zipper in back. DON’T RUSH You’ll
get hot, bothered, and sweaty, and not in a good way.
Don’t forget the plastic bags over the feet.
2. Pull the suit over feet and ankles to 1-3” above ankle bones.
Work legs up gradually over thighs and hips front and back, paying close
attention behind knees and hamstrings.
3. Get suit as high as possible into crotch without voice change. Torso,
sleeves, and collar will feel restrictive if crotch is too low.
4. Fold sleeve cuff back 3”, pull sleeve up to 3” above wrist
bump. Put on body, work arms into sleeves one at a time. Adjust sleeves
so that suit is high into armpits, eliminating large air pockets. Flip
cuff down into position.
5. Pull suit body up front and back. Adjust sleeves and torso, eliminating
large folds in stomach, low back, elbows, and crotch.
6. Position internal zipper flap flat against your back, zip up suit while
pulling your shoulder blades together, check that internal flap is not
folded.
7. Stretch flap and fastener closed, being sure the hook and loop doesn’t
rub your neck. Don’t ever hesitate to ask for help. Shop employees,
friends, race volunteers, fellow athletes, and even spectators will no
doubt be thrilled to help with your suit.
8. Recheck legs, torso, collar, and sleeves, position zipper pull cord
for easy transition, and go swim fast!! Best to remove the grocery bags
from your feet now.
9. IS THIS THE RIGHT SIZE? Suit will be snug but not restrictive. If suit
feels loose or leisure-suiit- comfortable out of water, choose a smaller
size. Suit should feel just right when in swimming position in the water,
out of the water it’ll feel too tight and uncomfortable.
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF YOUR WETSUIT: Care and Feeding
Congratulations! You’re the proud owner of the newest and best-designed
tri wetsuit in the industry. It is made with high stretch neoprene. Here
are some guidelines to help prolong the life of your suit.
Good Stuff:
1. Use caution and take your time putting on your suit. Tip: Put plastic
grocery bags over your feet and ankles, it’ll help the suit slide
up. Then you just pull them off over your feet. Pull the legs up a little
at a time, and make certain that the legs are all the way up front and
back.
2. Use Bodyglide around your neck if you are concerned about chafing.
Rinse your suit with cool, fresh water after each usage and make sure
all salt and dirt has been washed out of the zipper. To clean your suit,
use specially formulated Wetsuit Shampoo; follow package directions for
best results.
3. Hang inside out to dry on a thick plastic, not wire hanger.
4. Store in a cool, dry place inside out, lying flat, folded once across
the waist.
5. For travel:
a. Lay suit flat, zipper side down.
b. Fold legs up over chest.
c. Cross arms in X over chest.
d. Fold up in half at knees.
7. Your wetsuit is an expensive and technical piece of training and racing
equipment, and a little common sense will go a long way.
8. While using this or any other ZootSports product, remember to have
fun, go fast, and encourage your friends to do the same.
Bad Stuff:
1. DON’T use petroleum jelly, cooking spray, tanning oil, or any
kind of grease, oil, or solvents on your suit. They will cause irreparable
damage.
We have read lots of comments on websites, forums, and newsgroups advising
the use of these substances. DON’T DO IT! The stuff ruins the suits,
rots the glue, and makes it impossible to re-glue.
2. DON’T use your WetZoot for any sport or recreation other than
swimming.
3. DON’T hang a wetsuit for more than a week. The thinner rubber
in the shoulders will stretch and crack. For storage tip, see #5 of “Good
Stuff.”
4. DON’T expose your suit to heat or direct sunlight. Both deteriorate
the neoprene and glue.
5. DON’T toss your suit in washing machine or dryer, and do not
dry clean or iron.
6. DON’T yank or pinch your suit when putting it on. Fingernails,
sharp objects, and friction are the enemies of neoprene. Also, don’t
let it drag on the ground or get caught in your bike wheel while you’re
riding to the race.
For small repairs, see “How to Repair Your Suit” in the next
section.
7. DON’T sit, kneel, or squat in your suit for more than 5 minutes.
Zoot’s neoprene is very flexible, but sitting and kneeling put extra
stress on the seams and rubber.
8. DON’T try to shorten or alter your suit yourself. What seems
like a good idea usually isn’t after you see the results. Call or
email us for assistance with this.
9. DON’T leave your WetZoot crumpled wet in a bag or car trunk,
it will mold and/or mildew. If your suit starts to smell bad, try “Mirazyme”
mentioned in “Extra Products” at the end of this section.
10. DON”T try to squeeze yourself into a borrowed wetsuit or one
that fit 25 lbs ago. Wetsuits don’t shrink, and are sometimes tighter
after the off season.
AUGH! I have a small tear in my suit and a race tomorrow morning!
1. For tear through rubber but not through fabric backing. You will need:
• Wetsuit glue (available at surf shops, dive shops, and tri/bike
shops that sell wetsuit repair supplies.)
• Toothpick or coffee stir stick
• Optional: Cellophane tape (Like you have on your desk or use for
gift-wrapping,) Alcohol wipe.
WORK IN A DRY, WELL-VENTILATED AREA AWAY FROM DIRECT FLAME AND HEAT SOURCES!
Suit must be clean and dry.
a. Open up the small tear and brush out dust, dirt, and sand. Use alcohol
wipe to remove all greasy residue (fingerprints or sun block.)
b. Using a toothpick or coffee stir stick, apply a thin layer of glue
to both sides. Let dry, then apply a second thin coat.
c. Let dry until sticky, then press both sides together, and pinch the
edges.
d. At this point, you can put a small piece of the tape over the repaired
area to keep it stable; otherwise just allow suit to lie flat in a cool,
dry, well-ventilated area away from direct heat sources for 2-3 hours
or overnight.
2. For small (1” or less,) tear through rubber and fabric, you
will need the above plus an iron, 4 sheets of white paper (newspaper is
OK in a pinch,) and a patch or strip of “Melco heat tape,”
(available from dive shops and tri shops that sell wetsuit repair supplies.)
TO REPAIR THE FABRIC SIDE:
a. Cut a patch or strip of tape the size of the tear plus ¼”
extra on all sides. If all you have are strips of tape, you can overlap.
b. Place paper around patched area to protect the suit from the heat of
the iron.
c. Follow directions for the heat tape. If there are no directions, set
your iron to the “Wool” setting, no steam necessary.
d. Use the pointed tip of the iron, with moderate pressure, and move the
iron over the tape. Don’t leave the iron in one place longer than
1-2 seconds, or you will scorch the fabric and weaken the neoprene.
3. THEN FOLLOW DIRECTIONS #1 ABOVE TO REPAIR THE SMOOTH RUBBER OUTSIDE.
Great Wetsuit accessories and where to get them:
1. Wetsuit Shampoo, glue, and Hanger, by McNett: Tri-, Surf, or Scuba
Shop.
2. UV Tech conditioner and Mirazyme by McNett.
3. BodyGlide: Use around your neck, armpits, and inside your biceps (sleeveless
suits.) Purchase at your tri, run, or swim shop.
4. Suit Juice: Spray-on liquid makes suit easier to put on and take off.
www.suitjuice.com
5. Tear-Aid: Very sticky plastic patches for wetsuits. Good for emergencies
and big tears: www.tear-aid.com. Warning: These don’t come off!
6. Sharpie Metallic Marker: for putting your name on the suit: Staples
or other office supply store.
How’s My Wetsuit Made?
1. Blindstitch: Interior stitching done with a curved-needle machine which
only pierces halfway through the neoprene. The seam is triple-glued first,
and the combination of the glue and blind-stitching create strong, flexible,
comfortable, and waterproof construction.
2. Lining material: The fabric is laminated to the neoprene. Zenith and
ZootOne wetsuits have Super Stretch Polyester lining, and ZootTwo has
high stretch nylon jersey.
3. High Stretch Heat Tape: is ironed onto high stress areas as an extra
reinforcement.
4. Neoprene: Yamamoto # 39 low density, high buoyancy and flexibility
foam. Yamamoto Corporation consistently produces the highest quality and
most technologically advanced neoprene in the industry.
5. Smoothskin Rubber: All WetZoots have a Super Composite Skin coating
(see page 2 for details on SCS.) Zenith and ZootOne feature SCS-Nano,
and ZootTwo has SCS.
6 Triple glued seam: The suits are glued together first, allowed to cure,
and then blind-stitched.
THE ROAD TO ZENITH
Comments from Karen Sing, Wetsuit Product Manager, Zootsports.
I’ve been in the tri wetsuit business since 1989, two years after
Dan Empfield went to a surf wetsuit manufacturer in Orange County and
had a surf suit made of smoothskin rubber that he could swim in. Quintana
Roo wetsuits were born, and the “standard” was set:
1. Thick 4 mm or 5mm piece of smoothskin rubber down the front,
2. 2mm arms and side panels,
3. Enough 3mm mixed around to make the suit easier to put on and take
off.
4. A back zip, high collar, and some Velcro completed the package.
Fast forward to November 2005 when Brian Enge came on board at ZootSports:
We determined that although neoprene technology had advanced, tri wetsuits
all
looked very similar, followed the 20-year–old “standard,”
and problems still remained:
PROBLEMS
1. Thicker, more buoyant suits were too hard to get on and off, and sometimes felt restrictive while swimming. Sleeveless, and thinner, more comfortable suits weren’t as fast in the water because of reduced buoyancy.
2. Small rips in the thicker parts of the suits due to the high modulus. In spite of the best efforts of manufacturers and retailers to educate customers, extremely low density rubber is more fragile than its less-buoyant counterparts, and tears when put under stress.
3. High necks keep out water, but are sometimes uncomfortable, and because they are attached to the thick front and back panels, lack flexibility.
4. Long-sleeved suits feel restrictive, especially to very good swimmers because even the thinnest sleeves attach to the front and back panels. This limits any kind of lung/chest expansion and arm extension.
5. It’s hard to kick or run to transition in thick wetsuits. Some swimmers have even reported leg cramps in longer swims.
6. Triathletes are extremely well informed, technically savvy, and very particular and vocal about their equipment. Not necessarily a problem, but they do gather a lot of their product information from websites, open forums, and blogs.
Real innovation in tri wetsuits was long overdue and the time had come
to re-think the project.
“Form follows function,” (What do we need the garment to do?)
1. Warm and buoyant for comfort and optimal body position in the water
(Yamamoto neoprene.)
2. Reduce friction while swimming (SCS* coating on neoprene.)
3. More flexible areas in arms, chest, back, neck while swimming; room
for kicking or simply maintain bloodflow to leg muscles.
4. Keep water out.
5. 5mm or less in the thickest areas.
6. Easy to put on/ take off.
7. Comfortable, non-claustrophobic out of the water, maintain circulation
in legs for running, walking, or waiting for race to start.
How to “Re-invent” the Tri Wetsuits? Could we combine existing materials and technologies in new ways to create a suit that would solve the problems and move ZootSports to the front of the very crowded wetsuit pack?
Why not build a 2mm suit of Yamamoto SCS-Nano-coated lightweight neoprene
and put some 3mm panels in?
This was the pivotal moment, and aside from some small speedbumps, the
project moved along quickly.
Challenges:
1. Where is the best place to put the panels inside the suit?
2. What kind of adhesive could be used to attach the panels?
3. Pattern sizing: the suit was so flexible, our normal patterns were
much too big.
4. Could the suit be mass-produced without costing a fortune?
5. Would it work in the water?
6. How could we possibly keep the secret until the June 06 sales meeting?
7. What could we name this new suit?
Where did the Batman look come from?
The distinctive 3 Dimensional appearance of the suit was discovered quite
by accident. Because I had stuck all the panels to the inside of the suit
before taking it to be blindstitched, the seamstress wanted all the edges
trimmed and glued down before she would sew them. The panels popped out,
and we now had a completely unique look to our new suit.
How could we test the suit and keep the secret?
Our friends swam at 3 AM at 24 Hour Fitness, and they did everything we
hoped and more! Patent applications were filed, the suits were sent to
the factory, the secret remained intact, and Zootsports was well on its
way to a completely new and different tri wetsuit offering. Because it
was meant to be the pinnacle, we named it “Zenith.”
ZENITH SOLUTIONS
1. Buoyancy: 2 mm areas in chest, legs, back.
2. Total friction reduction: SCS-Nano coating.
3. Flexibility:2mm arms, side panels, and channels throughout the suit.
4. Maximum arm, shoulder, and chest expansion/extension : 2mm horizontal
channels at front and back waist as well as vertical channels in chest
and upper back.
5. Lower, more flexible collar is attached only to 2mm rubber.
6. 2mm channels in front and back of legs: suit is easy to put on and
take off while allowing complete blood circulation in thighs and calves.
7. 3mm panels and 2mm base suit rather than one layer of 5mm rubber, suit
is much more durable, less vulnerable to fingernail and stress tears.
8. The technology makes sense and the suit does everything we promise,
all while looking radically different from all the other wetsuits on the
market.
Success! We had Reinvented the Tri Wetsuit!
GET YOUR ZENITH ON!
